thinking. Exhibitions. recommendations.
Personal Reflections on Sargent and Fashion (tate BRITAIN), Beyond Fashion (Saatchi Gallery), Fragile Beauty (V&A), and Portraits to Dream In (national Portrait Gallery)
Beyond Fashion PV. May 2024
Beyond Fashion. Saatchi Gallery. 31 MAY - 8 SEPT 2024
I have always felt fashion photography to be an UNDER-APPRECIATED fine art form and a truly fascinating exploration of intimacy and poise, "Beyond Fashion" at Saatchi Gallery goes some way to rectify this.
The exhibition showcases the work of renowned fashion photographers like Nick Knight, Peter Lindbergh, and Viviane Sassen, demonstrating how fashion photography has evolved beyond mere commercial presentation to become a profound art form. Divided into four sections—Allure, Fantasy, Realism, and Surrealism—the exhibition tells the story of fashion photography's journey from the glossy settings of studios to the raw edges of street photography.
The works reflect on our lives, explore our aspirations, and push the boundaries of creativity. It features some of the most iconic images and dynamic brands in contemporary culture, including classic VOGUE covers and shots of supermodels like Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss.
Of particular note was ECAL×JEAN PAUL GAULTIER: UNDER YOUR SMELL. showcasing the work of the students of ecal bachelor photography who, Under the guidance of Florence Tétier and Nicolas Coulomb, visually reinterpreted Jean Paul Gaultier’s “perfume,”. It reports to be an anthem for gender diversity and a new direction for beauty - which it achieves. the curation by Nathalie Herschdorfer is exceptional, layered, transient and impactful. Filled with Gen-Z influencers and models the space came to life, it shows photography as much more than a commercial device.
Sargent and Fashion. Tate Britain. UNTIL 7 JULY 2024
I’ve been a lifelong fan of sargent, his work timeless, impactful and stunningly crafted. I was extremely excited to see this exploration of his use of fashion (especially because his popularity was often used against him as a painter of contemporary ‘society people.
Celebrated for his striking portraits, the exhibition sheds new light on how he used fashion to craft the identities of his sitters. It highlights how Sargent acted like a stylist, often choosing or manipulating the clothing of his subjects to express their personalities and his artistic vision - tugging a heavy coat tighter to emphaise a figure or a dress strap slip sensuously from a shoulder
Featuring more than 60 of his paintings, many of which rarely travel, alongside period garments worn in the portraits. The use of fashion to bring out some potentially UNDER APPRECIATED parts of the work was impactful, but I felt the garments themselves did not stand up to some more recent fashion focused exhibitions. Rather than equal billing I would have presented them as mechanisms for further appreciation of the work rather than considering it a garment ehxibition. That aside, seeing Sargent’s innovative use of costume was a unique experience that still captivates today.
Francesca Woodman and Julia Margaret Cameron: Portraits to Dream In. National Portrait Gallery. 21 March - 16 June 2024
Equally a massive fan of Francesca Woodman’s exceptional photography I was interested to see this innovative framing of her works alongside those of Julia Margaret Cameron.
’Photographers Francesca Woodman and Julia Margaret Cameron are two of the most influential women in the history of photography. They lived a century apart – Cameron working in the UK and Sri Lanka from the 1860s, and Woodman in America and Italy from the 1970s. Both women explored portraiture beyond its ability to record appearance – using their own creativity and imagination to suggest notions of beauty, symbolism, transformation and storytelling. Showcasing more than 160 rare vintage prints, Francesca Woodman and Julia Margaret Cameron: Portraits to Dream In spans the career of both artists – and suggests new ways to look at their work, and the way photographic portraiture was created in the 19th and 20th centuries.’ From the National Portrait Website.
The work is exceptional, small, INTEGRATE and I was surprised to see a wider collection of woodman’s work than I have previously seen displayed. While I APPRECIATE both artists individually, I found the connection between the two a bit TENuous. Despite this, the dreamlike quality of their portraits was deeply moving. Woodman's surreal, intimate self-portraits and Cameron’s ethereal Victorian-era portraits created a powerful, if slightly disjointed, dialogue about identity and femininity.
Fragile Beauty: Photographs from the Sir Elton John and David Furnish Collection. Victoria and Albert Museum. Until 5 January 2025
Sir elton john and david furnish’s collection of photography is admitted the one which makes me drool to have enough money to collect such exceptionally famous and impactful works.
"Fragile Beauty" at the Victoria and Albert Museum was a tranquil, reflective experience. The exhibition features a wide selection of photographs from their Collection, showcasing iconic images that tell the story of modern and contemporary photography. The subjects range from fashion and celebrity to reportage and the male body.
I was enchanted by the meticulous detail and the diverse range of themes. It was fascinating to see the works of some of the world’s leading photographers and how they capture the fragility and beauty of their subjects. This exhibition not only highlights exquisite craftsmanship but also offers deep insights into the evolution of photographic art.
Although very well curated and executed - I felt it was not as well done as previous exhibitions of their works - NOTABLY THE RADICAL EYE: MODERNIST Photography at Tate Modern (2016-2017), and the title felt like it referenced other exhibitions currently open rather than the works directly, it was still impressive. Some lesser seem Mapplethorpe works are still sitting with me.
Final Thoughts.
London’s current exhibitions offer a fascinating exploration of fashion and beauty through different lenses - and all feel rather interconnected.
Whether you're drawn to Sargent’s elegant portraits, the boundary-pushing creations at Saatchi, the diverse and iconic photography at the V&A, or the dreamlike images at the National Portrait Gallery, there's something to captivate every art lover.